The mythology of Sevusevu

 

Anchorage on Waya Island

In Waya, we are greeted by huge gusts of up to 35 knots. Fortunately, they are short-lived and die down completely after sunset. Yalobi Village is the name of the small village where we land the next day. As we are just before the full moon, the tide is particularly high or the water has receded a long way and it is not easy to get ashore. There is a sandy beach near the school that is ideal for landing. We pull the boat onto the beach and tie it to a palm tree with a long line.

With the dinghy ashore, Waya Island, Fiji

With our gift of kava, we make our way to the village to visit the chief. We later learn that Jim, who introduces himself as the chief's bodyguard, makes himself known near the church. Before we are allowed to see the chief, he familiarizes us with a few rules. Among other things, no headgear may be worn in the village. I knew that hats should not be worn, so I use a headscarf. But Jim also complains about this and so, somewhat disadvantaged by nature, the sun shines down on my non-existent head of hair. I try to push myself into the shade, but this is always claimed by our bodyguard. So I move a little closer to him to get at least a little shade. He takes the kava wrapped in newspaper from my hand and we walk to the hut near the church. Here we are introduced to the chief, who greets and welcomes us. We talk to him for a while, but once again there is no sevusevu. Apparently, nobody is allowed to drink kava in Fiji during the first week of the month. There won't be another kava ceremony until Sunday, after mass. But then we'll be gone again. Sevusevu therefore remains a myth for us for the time being. 

Jim is looking for a wife, Yalobi Fiji

With Jim as our guide, we take a tour of the village. Of course, not before we have looked at a few souvenirs in his house. In confidence, he tells me that he is looking for a wife and that, as I have two, I could give him one. His eye fell on Bärbel, who was sitting next to him in the house. Unfortunately, Bärbel is not interested, even after good persuasion and the disclosure of the many advantages that such a relationship could have. This may be because Jim has two brothers who live in the house and Bärbel may be a little put off by this all-male economy. During the tour of the village, we buy some fruit and vegetables, which we are offered by the villagers. Jim tells me once again at the end that the next time I come, I will bring him a woman. Of course, I can't promise him anything, but I'll do my best.

Yalobi village, Fiji

We leave Waya Island the very next day. The plan was actually to drive a little further north, but the weather put a spanner in the works. For the next few days, the wind is expected to blow strongly from the south-east, which would make the return trip much more difficult. We therefore set off in order to be as close to Denerau as possible in case the wind doesn't die down on the day of our guests' departure. We pass Tokoriki Island and Tavua Island on our way to Qalito Island. We drop anchor in Castaway South. The resort of the same name is home to the original Wilson ball, which Tom Hanks addressed as Mr. Wilson in the film “Castaway”. We skip the visit and sail on to Musket Cove the next day. A hike over the ridge of the island gives us another lasting impression of the turquoise waters and the beautiful bay of Malolo Island. As predicted in the weather forecast, the wind picks up considerably and so we lie somewhat uneasily in the anchorage at 27 knots. Even on the day we have reserved a buoy in Denerau, the wind is still blowing quite strongly. Nevertheless, we head out of the bay of Musket Cove and get the easterly wind on our heads. I let the genoa out behind the reef, which doesn't really help. We would have to drop too much to make any headway with the sail. The engine is therefore running all the time. The further north we go, the further we get into the lee of the main island. Five miles before Denerau there is no wind at all. The genoa is hauled in again and we motor the last stretch to Denerau. The reservation we made three weeks ago when we left is still valid and so we have no problems entering the harbor and can moor at the designated buoy. Our guests' vacation is coming to an end.

By bus to Lautoka, Fiji

One last adventure we undertake is to take the bus to Lautoka. The bus goes from Nadi to Lautoka. A cab driver takes us to Nadi. Joshua also helps me to get a new cell phone. In the totally overcrowded store, he pushes his way in cab style so that we don't need fifteen minutes to buy a new cell phone. It would certainly have taken me much longer. Setting it up is no problem as the SIM card still works. In Lautoka, I try to get a new tap. The tap in the guest cabin is leaking, which causes a drop in pressure in the system at night and regularly activates the pump. Apart from the loss of water, which I haven't been able to pinpoint for the last few days, it's really annoying. Unfortunately, I can't find anything suitable. So once again I have to improvise.

The youth center in Yalobi, Fiji

I'll tell you how I'm doing this and what's next in the next blog. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.