When it gets hot and you don't really know why

The hot springs in Savusavu on Fiji are geothermal in nature and were created by volcanic activity in the region. Fiji is located in the so-called “Ring of Fire”, an area of high tectonic and volcanic activity in the Pacific Ocean. We take a closer look, as some of the springs are only a few hundred meters away from our anchorage. We had already noticed the beach at our current mooring, which starts to steam at low tide. At first we assumed that the water had evaporated, which is true, but unfortunately we were way off the mark as to the cause. Even when the sun is not shining, a stretch of beach about 100 meters long simply steams away. The hot springs are created by various processes that complement each other. Hot water, which measures around 98°C, rises to the surface.

On the way to the hot springs, Savusavu Fiji

On the one hand, there are hot rock layers beneath the earth's surface that are heated by the geological activity in the region. This heat heats the groundwater in deeper layers of rock. The proximity to tectonic plate boundaries in Fiji means that the groundwater is heated by the geothermal gradient (the increase in temperature with depth). This heated water rises through cracks and fissures in the earth's crust. In addition, in Savusavu, rainwater permeates the ground and is heated at depth by the geothermal heat. The hot water or steam then rises to the surface. The hot springs in Savusavu are a result of such hydrothermal systems. The geological structure in the Savusavu region has porous rocks and tectonic faults that allow the heated water to easily rise to the surface. The volcanic history of Vanua Levu, the island on which Savusavu is located, has created these geological conditions.

Hot spring in Savusavu, Fiji

You have free access to the springs, which the locals use for cooking. Every now and then a housewife comes by and places a linen sack filled with vegetables in the hot water. Under no circumstances can you bathe in this bubbling water. It is far too hot for that. The geological context is explained by means of information boards.

Cooking area at the eternal oven of the earth, Savusavu Fiji

After so much knowledge at once, we have become quite thirsty and in search of a remedy, we once again end up at our Indian restaurant, the Island Grill. The restaurant has found a special place in our lives. A wonderful view of the bay and across to Nawi Island is crowned by exquisite service and outstanding cuisine. Our European palates are taken into consideration, and if you don't explicitly order “India style”, you will be served a much milder version. By the way, October 10 is Fiji Day. It is Fiji's Independence Day and is considered the highest public holiday. But I'll tell you about that next time. Just this much: we have ordered a holiday menu at the Island Grill and are very excited about it.

Island Grill, Savusavu Fiji

We actually wanted to be out of here again, but the weather has once again thrown a spanner in the works. So we stay for another week and then see how things look. In the meantime, we take care of a few things on our to-do list. After a long search, I find the fuse for our anchor washing system. Getting the water on board with a bailer when maneuvering the anchor is a very strenuous and not exactly effective way of cleaning the chain and anchor gear. In this respect, we are happy to be able to tick off this point. We then carried out a somewhat more extensive procedure on the Tuvalu, which once again earned me a hot meal. The autopilot was making strange noises and failing to work. We assumed it was the motor and replaced it. It's a good thing Gottfried always has a spare part with him. You can't get anything like it on the island or anywhere else in Fiji. Unfortunately, the new motor is also struggling. We also change the electronics, and lo and behold, the autopilot works like new. So far so good; we hope to leave at the end of next week and then want to go to the Yasawa Islands. You'll find out next week on Glenswelt whether we succeed. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.