Alone Like a Rolling Stone

From food and drinks

While the jet between Tenerife and Gran Canaria whistles through at 18 knots and there are still 15 knots on the east coast, it is windless here in the south, in Puerto Mogan. To the west, along the cliff edge, we see the sun setting. We sit in the Sol y Luna, a small restaurant, in the harbor of Puerto Mogan, not even 50 meters from our boat, Katinka, and enjoy the harbor atmosphere.

Puerto Mogan

The host greets us with "Hello Family" and immediately lists the advantages that the restaurant has to offer. However, he has forgotten one advantage, and the decisive one, namely the proximity to our boat. We take a seat and let him show us the culinary delicacies that are freshly served. At least that's what you can see, from the still-living lobster. The orange-red light, the sun disappearing behind the rock, goes out and gives way to that of the street lamps. We order prawns, a very special species found in this region. Afterwards, a grilled pulpo arm is served, which could not be more tender. The last course is a red snapper fillet, which finally convinces us of the top cuisine we are offered here. 


Grilled Pulpo

Red Snapper

It may not look like it, but the cuisine is first class. As in other regions of the Canary Islands, Puerto Mogan has to struggle with the lack of tourists. We walk along the promenade, where one restaurant follows the other. A three-course meal is here, for under 10€ to get. Nevertheless, you always get a place and partly, the restaurant is not even half occupied. What is new to us here is that even the native Spaniards, who usually occupy the restaurants from 22:00pm, are no longer present. At 22:00pm 90% of the restaurants have clean up their boards and tables. Only a few restaurants remain open beyond that time.
We discover a Hiper Dino with delivery service and make a bulk purchase. Inspired by the last article in Trans-Ocean Magazine, by Claudia Kirchberger, we buy non-perishable food in quantity, and have it delivered on board. In plastic containers we pack, rice, flour and pasta. With rye flour we make our first sourdough. We grease eggs and turn them once a week. All packaging material is disposed of after the purchase, still in the port. We remove the labels from the cans and write on them with a waterproof pen. 

Provisions for the next half year

A lot of work until such a purchase, suitable for the journey, is stowed. In the morning we went shopping. The purchase has lasted alone three hours. At 18:00pm, the goods are then delivered to us at the boat. After 23:00 o'clock the last bottom board of the bilge was back in place. Dead tired we fall into our bunks and wake up very late the next morning. In the evening we visit the restaurant Terraza del Sol, which we had noticed yesterday on the way to our shopping. On the awning the restaurant advertises, with the inscription "Tapas and traditional Spanish cuisine". Gaby orders an entrecote, which turns out to be a medium T-bone steak, and I have freshly caught fish. Both are delicious and the price is unbeatable at the moment. On the promenade, with a view to the south, we end the evening with a mojito. 

Mojito on the promenade

About 800 nautical miles straight ahead, lie the Cape Verde Islands, our next destination which we will tackle in a few weeks. To have an even better view, we visit the next day, the fishing village of Puerto Mogan, which is built on the western slope of the valley, steeply up, on the rock. Lots of steps lead through the village to a viewing platform, from which you have a wonderful view, in the bay and the open sea. 

The fishing village of Puerto Mogan

It may be that it is due to all the sun that there is here, but somehow all the places in the name, have to do with sun. So we drink on the Plaza del Sol, in the shade, a cool beer and go after our favorite activity. The days, here in Puerto Mogan are counted and we sit at noon one last time in Sol y Luna and enjoy the tapas. This time, in addition to potatoes and a salad, a grilled eggplant with a palm honey dressing. I think if I hadn't stopped Gaby, she would have sat in. 

Eggplant in palm honey dressing

The host comes and says, "You bring me luck, if you are there, the place is full". So everyone is happy and we are happy to have made someone happy once again. As usual, you can read about what we'll be up to next week in the blog, at We are looking forward to your visit. Until then, as always, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.