Koueva

A cool breeze blows down from the slopes in front of Taiohae, making it easier to breathe as we tackle the first climb. We set off very early to avoid the worst of the heat. Our destination is the archaeological site of Guevara, located about 200 meters above sea level, in the hinterland of the largest settlement of Nuku-Hiva, Taiohae. Koueva was a venue for the Polynesian festival, but has otherwise been forgotten by the locals and is rarely visited by tourists. You can tell when we ask for directions and are met with a shrug of the shoulders. Yet Koueva is one of the oldest and largest places of worship in the Marquesas. Perhaps this is because you have to hike to the site.

Koueva, Marquesas

We have now left the village and the well-tended gardens with their hibiscus bushes, mango trees and grapefruit trees behind us. The road winds its way up the mountain, and despite the early hour and the light breeze still blowing down the mountain, it gets warmer and warmer, making the climb a sweaty affair. This time we took precautions and brought enough to drink. Shortly before the third hairpin bend, the dirt track branches off and leads us into the forest. Densely overgrown bamboo and a sign show us that we have arrived. But at first there is no sign of a place of worship. A final climb then brings us to the spacious square with the surrounding huts, which is dominated on one side by a mighty tree with an enormous root system. These trees must play a special role in mythology, as they can be found at almost every place of worship. They also seem to have been used for orientation, as there is often a fork in the road at these trees.

Gaby in Koueva, Marquesas

What is special about Koueva is that the huts are not only built around the central square, but there are also various huts outside, in the forest. They are oriented in different directions and represent a separate place of worship within the overall complex. Some of the figures or tikis are heavily weathered, which indicates that they are very old. For the first time, we see a figure that is very similar to those on Easter Island. There has obviously been an exchange between the two island groups. Nature is slowly reclaiming the cultivated areas, giving the place a very special atmosphere. Turning a corner of the wall, a horse suddenly appears in front of us. As we thought we were the only ones here, we get quite a fright. The horse just looks at us in amazement, but very quickly gets back to working the ground and clearing the tall grass. The shady forest is pleasant, so we are in no hurry to get out of here. We sit down on a ledge and take in the view. We make our way back through the forest. The path leads steeply downhill in places. Again and again we pass houses and look at the beautiful gardens. We reach the main road again at Che Jaqueline. Unfortunately, the small restaurant is still closed. We would have liked to try it. Instead, we walk to the market and sit down in our favorite restaurant for a lunch snack.

Tiki in Koueva, Marquesas

In the meantime, the second supply ship has arrived on Nuku-Hiva this week. On the following day, we go on another shopping trip to replenish our supplies. Although there is already considerably more available than the days before, it will probably take a few more supply ships to restore the pre-Christmas level. At least the drinks are replenished and we even get a cheese. We'll probably have to visit one or two more supermarkets in the next few days, as the provision master won't let up. I just say iah, iah and follow dutifully.

Gaby in Koueva, Marquesa

Not too tired, we are invited to dinner in the evening and told the story of an excursion to the neighboring island of Ua Huka. The inexperienced riders were shown their limits on a six-hour riding excursion. They took the ferry to Ua Huka and booked a riding excursion. According to the four of them, it was pure adventure. At first I didn't know who I should feel sorry for more, the people or the animals. But when I saw the scraped thighs, the horse couldn't have suffered as much as the one sitting on top. However, it was probably a drastic experience that made future riding a distant prospect. In the meantime, all four have recovered to some extent and so the evening was quite amusing and entertaining thanks to the stories.

Mangos in Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

Refraining from such experiments, we prefer to rely on our own footwear, although that can sometimes go wrong, and explore the area. With this in mind, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.