On the mend

The fog in my head slowly dissipates and the strength in my body returns. It's still incredibly tiring to walk a few steps, but the body is signaling improvement. Fortunately, Gaby hasn't caught anything and I'm always surprised that she doesn't catch it. However, I am also happy about that. Nevertheless, I'm careful and stay away from other people so that nobody gets infected. We also celebrated New Year alone. Last year in Panama we had a small fireworks display, but here on Nuku-Hiva there wasn't a single rocket in the sky. Yes, we would have almost slept through the New Year if we hadn't been eagerly awaiting midnight to wish each other all the best and then fall into bed. The surroundings made it easy for us because, as I said, there were no bangs.

Nuku-Hiva Northeast

The first days of 2024 have now passed and I'm feeling much better. I have resumed the first jobs. Supplies on land are becoming increasingly difficult as the arrival of supply ships is delayed due to the holidays. We make the best of it and support the local hospitality industry. Between the small market on the landing quay, which still sells local fruit and vegetables, there is a small restaurant that also serves breakfast. With an omelette and a baguette, plus a coffee, you get a sumptuous breakfast there. In an atrium-like building, you sit in the shade and look out over a nicely landscaped garden inside the building. A free internet connection means there's no rush, so we enjoy sitting here and spending the morning. There are still a lot of boats in the bay. Some had left shortly after the festival, but they reappeared shortly before the New Year and stayed. So there is still a lot of chaos at the dinghy dock. It takes quite a while to untie your dinghy from the many lines of the other boats and reach free water. It is better to pull the dinghy onto the nearby beach. However, this is not so easy with a weight of 90 kg without rollers. Many dinghies have rollers fitted here, which make it easy to pull them ashore. Many dinghies have rollers mounted here, which make it easy to pull them ashore. However, this would make our boat even heavier and put even more strain on our David, the structure that holds the dinghy during our crossing. So we continue to live with unknotting and free-floating our dinghy on our shore excursions.

Nuku-Hiva cult site in the forest

With a rental car and the crew of the Tuvalu, we make our way across the island. Over the Teavanui Pass, which is 576 meters above sea level, we first head to Taipivai and Hooumi Bay, where several boats are moored. From here, the route continues on a paved road to the north-east of the island, to Hatiheu. Shortly before Hatiheu is Tohua Koueva, a mystical place of worship in the middle of the forest, where part of the festival took place. The trees here are huge and provide shade. In Hatiheu, we stop for lunch in a restaurant with a view of the empty bay. Unlike in the south of the island, very few boats get lost here. This may be because it seems quite difficult to land. We then continue along a gravel road to Aakapa.

Nuku-Hiva north coast on the slopes

This dirt road used to be the only way to the airport in the north-west, and it is surprising how people managed to get past each other in some places. Without a four-wheel drive, some places are completely impassable. The village of Aakapa lies in a hollow and after crossing a river, the road climbs steeply into the mountains again. The further west we go, the more barren the landscape becomes. After four hours, we reach a paved road again not far from the airport. The airport has a reception and check-in hall as well as a small restaurant. After four hours of shaking, we treat ourselves to a coffee and a small snack before setting off on our journey home again.

Nuku-Hiva barren northwest

This time over the paved road and the highest pass on Nuku-Hiva, at 1227 meters above sea level. The landscape with its pine forests resembles the European Alps, and in some places there are even cattle farms. There is still a lot to see here, but we have to postpone this until another time as we are already late. We reach Taiohae again in the early evening. On arrival, I realize that the day has been very exhausting for me. But it was impressive and I am glad to have done this tour. We still have a little time to discover other places on the island before we leave for Tahiti. With this in mind, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.