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I've been lying in the bay of Hakahetau on Ua Pou for two days. Not a soul here. The waves crash into the rocks and foamily jump back into the sea. The beach, which consists of stones the size of ostrich eggs, creates a background noise that at least inspires respect. The waves that break there move the stones back and forth, rumbling. Especially in the evening hours, when I'm sitting alone in the cockpit, and it gets dark, the white edge of the wave glows, reflected by the moonlight. The black beach forms a symbiosis with the night and can only be distinguished by the spray. Alone, the impressions offered by nature are even more intense. I think to myself and review the week.
Beach of Ua Pou, Marquesas |
Lonely anchorage on Ua Pou, Marquesas |
We reach up to five knots, which is a significant gain in speed compared to the last time. The cleaning of the hull has therefore paid off. The wind dies down around midday, only to pick up again two hours later. I pick up speed again and am soon accompanied by dolphins. They play with the bow of the Katinka for half an hour and then are gone again as quickly as they came. So I'm back to being alone like a rolling stone, thinking of Gaby and hoping that everything went well. Tears well up in my eyes, you just get a bit stupid with age. That's the downside: when you sit so close together, as we do most of the time, you just miss something.
Impressive mountain world on Ua Pou, Marquesas |
But I don't have any more time to think about it now, because I've come within a nautical mile of the coast of Ua Pous. Now it's time to hoist the sails and enter the bay. Of course, 15 knots are now blowing around the corner and I have to get into the wind to haul in the genoa, as there is too much pressure on it. I can take the main down straight away. I motor the last stretch and drop the anchor in the sand at nine meters. Furthermore, I'm the only one in the bay. The last time I was here with Gaby, there were four of us. And once again I'm alone like a rolling stone. A minestrone and the news from Germany that everything went well lifts my spirits. Tomorrow I'm going to clean the inlet of the water maker, as it doesn't get enough water.
While cooking |
Shortly after breakfast, the water around 100 meters away from me starts to foam. A few fins become visible, the rest of the body remains underwater. As dolphins are mammals and need air to breathe, at least one of these bodies should surface after a while, which is not the case. So it must have been sharks, which makes me postpone my plan to clean the inlet of the water maker. I'd rather ask a few locals what's swimming around in their bay first. Maybe a boat will come into the bay in the next few days, then I won't be not alone like a rolling stone. With this in mind, always fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.
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