After we have once again done a lot of shopping and have enough provisions for a few weeks, we set off for Ua Pou. The weather forecast predicts light winds from the east, which of course is not the case. The wind is coming from the south-east at 15 knots, gusting to 20 knots, which once again leaves us sailing on the edge. What's more, our departure was delayed by four hours because a huge amount of fouling made it necessary to clean the chain with a scrubbing brush and toothbrush. After all, we now know that we need four hours for 15 meters of chain to remove small crustaceans, algae and other growth from the chain. So once again we arrive at night in Ua Pou, in Hakahetau Bay. Here, too, we come across an anchor berth that has neither lights nor anchor light nor AIS switched on, and we almost run it over. Once again, the maneuver saves us at the last moment. I love these people who don't even have 50 euros to spare to buy an LED solar light and leave it on overnight. And while we're at it, I've really grown fond of the people who tie their dinghy to the exit ladder of the dinghy dock with just under two meters of line. By the way, I'm the one who covers your dinghy with road grime because I don't take my shoes off when I have to walk over your boat, otherwise I have no chance of reaching my dinghy. You're welcome!
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| Ua Pou Marquesas |
We reach Ua Pou at night and anchor on ten meters of sand. The bay impresses with its magnificent view. Individual rock spires rise up to 1200 meters into the sky. The island is covered in lush greenery. A dirt track leads inland to Manfred, the chocolate man. The German settled on the island 29 years ago. He makes a living from selling his own chocolate. Unfortunately, we don't meet him in person. We manage to communicate easily with his partner in English and French.
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| At the chocolate man Ua Pou, Marquesas |
We say goodbye again and hike to a small waterfall. The path branches off from the dirt track and leads through the bush for about ten minutes. Crossing a stream, we finally come to a cliff edge from which a waterfall pours into a basin. We can't resist the freshwater shower. The water is cool and refreshing, a real treat. Then it happens on the way back. Gaby slips on a palm frond and falls. Her knee is bleeding and her right arm is hanging unnaturally from her body. The pain is intense.
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| Waterfall on Ua Pou, Marquesas |
A hiking guide rushing to the scene, who was also at the waterfall, provides first aid. The fire department is called. With great difficulty, we make our way back to the dirt track where the emergency services arrive. We are taken to Hakahau in the fire engine. She is treated at the medical center. Her elbow is dislocated, but fortunately nothing is broken. A vein is inserted and she is given a painkiller. After she's talking rubbish, the actual treatment can begin. I have to stay with her the whole time because Gaby insists. With combined forces and, despite the anesthetic, enormous pain, we try to set the bones again, which doesn't really work at first. Eventually it does snap and it looks good, doesn't it?
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| Gaby at Ua Pou Hospital, Marquesas |
In any case, they are not quite sure and advise us to go to the hospital on Nuku Hiva that very night. So a helicopter is ordered to take Gaby to Nuku Hiva. I follow Gaby by boat the next day. Unfortunately, the wind has shifted in the meantime and is coming from the north, which is exactly the direction I need to go. It takes the whole day and twice the distance to cross. I arrive in Nuku Hiva in the evening, pretty exhausted. I don't linger long, get the dinghy ready and look for the hospital. Gaby is overjoyed to see me again, she had already prepared herself for another night in hospital. In Nuku Hiva, the arm was examined again and when the CT scan finally came back OK, the arm was immobilized and left at that. The knee, to which little attention had been paid until then, was stitched up as the wound kept starting to bleed. We settled the bill the next day, as the office was already closed that evening.
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| Gaby hiking, Ua Pou, Marquesas |
So hiking doesn't seem to be our core competence. First it happened to me, on the Gambiers, with a dislocated shoulder, and now it's happened to Gaby with a dislocated elbow. Both are not recommended and I strongly advise against imitating them. Now we are waiting for a suitable weather window to get back to Ua Pou. Hiking is out of the question for the time being, but we'll certainly find something else to do. With this in mind, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.
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