It also works without an accident

The bay of Hakahetau is full of comings and goings. No wonder, it is very restless here. A local tells me that there has been an unusual swell in the bay for about a month and that he has never seen it like this before. Sometimes there are up to five yachts here. Most of them only last two days.

Anchorage on Ua Pou, Marquesas

In the meantime, driven by the need for water, I go into the water and clean the seawater inlet. As I suspected, it is full of mussels that are letting in too little water. After cleaning, the water maker works perfectly again. I make 70 liters of water and am freed from hauling water around again.

Hiking on Ua Pou, Marquesas

I use the time I have freed up to go hiking. Likewise, I found a route on the Internet that is described as "easy". The length of 12.5 kilometers makes me a little suspicious, but I think to myself, you have time. The route leads to Mount Poumaka, one of the rocky pinnacles that stretch so imposingly into the sky on the island. The pin is over 370 meters high and reaches a height of 979 meters. This makes it the third-highest peak after Oave (1230 meters) and Pouakei (1035 meters). Manfred, the chocolate man, tells me that when he came to the island 26 years ago, he organized the first ascents. Back then, it was Germans who conquered these impressive rock pillars.

I content myself with hiking up to the start of the Poumaka wall at around 600 meters. Starting towards Haakuti, I reach the dirt track after the second hairpin bend, which leads me into a south-facing valley. The ascent is moderate and there are no signs that the route is not supposed to be easy. At the beginning, the valley is characterized by fruit trees and goat farming. The trees provide shade and make the hike very pleasant. After a good 2 kilometers, the dirt road ends in a trail that you first have to find. 

Invisible trail on Ua Pou, Marquesas

It is obviously not used very often and is therefore very overgrown. The vegetation becomes increasingly dense so that it is almost impossible to recognize the path. Still relatively flat, you pass Mount Poutemoka (671 meters), which you only see sporadically when the trees thin out a little. The dense foliage doesn't allow a clear view, but every now and then there is a huge crackling sound in the undergrowth, making it clear to me: I'm not alone. Sometimes I see piles of horses, which suggest horses. But they could also be escaped goats. I haven't met anyone on this tour, at least until I reach Manfred's estate. I'm already wondering when, after five kilometers, the path still only climbs moderately, and I ask myself how and where I'm supposed to get over the ridge. The question is answered a few meters further on as the path climbs steeply uphill. There are now 250 meters of altitude to overcome in just over a kilometer. My stamina leaves a lot to be desired and I have to stop again and again to catch my breath. My lungs are chattering, which is similar to the sound of a mule. 

Mt. Poumaka 979 meters high, Ua Pou Marquesas

I reach the tree line and get an initial overview. All around me is tall grass and low woodland. The stone pillars rise up around me and are so close. Every time I think I've made it, the next steep climb comes around the next corner. Completely exhausted, I reach the ridge and a transverse rock that blocks the way to the wall of Mount Poumaka. Secured with a rope, I get over this too and stand in front of the vertical rock face. Very impressive, and the feeling that it was worth it spreads. 

View from 600m to the sea, Ua Pou Marquesas

After a short rest, I head back down the other side of the ridge. This is where the section that is far from "easy" begins. The ridge is often only half a meter wide and drops vertically to the left and right in places. Passages are secured with rope in some places. Here, too, the path is difficult to find as it is not marked. You should therefore have some experience and be absolutely free from giddiness. After a good hour and a half, I reach the estate of Manfred, a German who has set himself the task of producing chocolate on the island of Ua Pou. You can visit him, taste the chocolate and, of course, buy it. A dirt road then leads from Manfred back to the village of Hakahetau. 

View from 600m to the sea, Ua Pou Marquesas

The same path that leads to the waterfall where Gaby had an accident a few weeks ago. This time I reach the village without incident and realize that it is possible without an accident. On the way back, I meet a Norwegian couple who anchored in the bay today. They want to go to the waterfall and I explain the way. I reach the boat again, pretty exhausted, and am glad to be able to stretch my limbs. My muscles will be sore again. Nevertheless, I'm pleased to have experienced this impressive nature. The only pests are the mosquitoes that come to rest. It is therefore advisable to always have enough mosquito spray with you.

Rope protection on Ua Pou, Marquesas

You can read about how my sore muscles are developing and what else I'm up to on the island in the next blog. With this in mind, as always, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.