Cyclone season

About sunken airplanes and white crosses

After our outboard had received a full service, it was time to try it out to see if it was worth the money. Around three nautical miles from us is the so-called aquarium. A depression in the outer reef, in the extension of the Faaa airport runway. For some reason, a Cessna didn't quite make it to the airport and it now serves as a diving attraction at a depth of 10 meters. I didn't have to tell Gottfried twice. Armed with a snorkel and fins, let's take a closer look.

Purrs like a kitten when you give it a good talking to

So I pull the rope to start the outboard and am pleased to see that it runs. However, when I push the choke back in, it chokes a little until it stalls again. In the meantime, I am drifting in the marina basin towards the exit. The engine refuses to do its job even after being activated several times. I was about to loosen the screws on the dinghy's transom to lower the engine when Gottfried shouted: “It stinks of fuel.” I open the cover and the housing is full of fuel. The hose from the fuel filter was not secured by the spring tensioner and was dangling around bored in the engine compartment. So I put it back on and secure it. The engine starts up again and runs. To be on the safe side, we filter the fuel, as this was left over from the previous owner, and then it actually starts. With its 18 hp, the outboard engine has considerably more power than the 10 hp engine we started the trip with and gets the dinghy planing within seconds, even though Gottfried and I are no lightweights. We thunder from Papeete Marina to the airport, unable to fully exploit the engine's potential, as a nasty wind wave repeatedly causes us to hit the ground hard. Knowing full well that the way back was not going to be a walk in the park, we didn't let it spoil our good mood and had great fun in the waves. 

Fun in the waves

After three nautical miles, we reach the aquarium and tie up to a buoy. We go into the water with the GoPro and after a few strokes the plane appears below us. Next to it is an old boat that almost fell on top of the Cessna. The edge of the aquarium is teeming with reef fish, although the corals are not exactly spectacular. Nevertheless, the spot is worth a visit. As feared, the way back is a wet affair and a hell of a ride. But at least the motor passed its baptism of fire after some initial difficulties and Gottfried and I had a lot of fun. This venture was followed by another one this week.

Airplane wreck in the aquarium

It is still dark at half past four in the morning in Papeete. The city is just waking up and the first cars are driving along the two-lane road along the promenade. In between, there is always a period of calm, which makes this morning something very special before the hustle and bustle of the city starts up again. There is a pleasant coolness in the air and the sky is starry. It promises to be a beautiful day. Just the right day for our plan. We want to go to the white cross of Papeete. An attractive vantage point about 230 meters above sea level with a fantastic view of Moorea and the northern part of Tahiti. 

Moorea from the white cross of Papeete

The harbor basin in particular is very easy to observe from up there. We deliberately chose the early hour of the day, as the ascent a few hours later can be very tiring due to the heat of the day. At five o'clock, it is still dark, Gottfried, Peter and I set off. We head south towards Mount Orohena, past the still closed stores in the city center. A few cookshops are already open and the first guests are getting breakfast. In the industrial area, we turn left into a residential area. The last hooker is on duty and senses a deal just before closing time. Perhaps it was also somewhere else, but we couldn't tell for sure in the dim light of the early morning. The path, which started out flat, becomes steeper and steeper and we reach the better residential areas, where high walls protect the houses from prying eyes. By now the sun has risen, but the temperatures are still very pleasant at 26°C. God knows we are not the only ones out and about at this early hour. The first hikers and joggers meet us at the edge of the forest. In the meantime, we have swapped the asphalt road for a hiking trail. The shade of the trees continues to protect us from the heat. We think we've already reached the finish line when, after a hairpin bend, another steep climb awaits us. Now we start to sweat as the trees thin out as far as possible. After a good hour's climb, we reach the white cross of Papeete. Around 3.5 kilometers is not necessarily far, but it is quite challenging for our sailor's legs. You actually have a wonderful view from up here. Even Moorea does us a favor today and the contours of the island are clearly visible. The island is usually hidden under a cloud of haze, which is not the case today. 

Papeete harbor, Tahiti

In the harbor, we can observe an incoming freighter that brings the entire ferry service to a standstill. It is turned around in the harbor basin by two tugboats and maneuvered to the final loading dock. After a quick refreshment, we set off on our way back. Passing the Maria No Te Hau place of worship and the small Archeveche De Papeete church, we reach the lively town again. We conclude this tour with a satisfying breakfast together.
We spend the rest of the week preparing for our onward journey. We gather initial information about Samoa and Wallis and Fortuna. Always fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.

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