If you have friends like that, you need a sour drop

The sky closes in alarmingly and it starts to rain just as we are about to weigh anchor. We abort the operation and wait a little longer.

Anchor up after a rain shower, Moorea

In the last week we visited the Tiki snorkeling spot after all. Unfortunately, the spot can be written off as a tourist niche. There are a few figures lying in the sand at a depth of three to four meters. The few corals are dead and there are virtually no fish. All in all, there are much nicer snorkeling and diving spots on Moorea. Since the snorkeling was more of a failure, we opt for hiking. Our destination is the Belvedere du Opunohu. I'm told there's a wonderful restaurant up there with a view of the bay. The cool beer goes down my throat like oil, I'm told. Well, the path is a bit steep, but it's worth it, they persuade me. My curiosity is piqued and so we set off on the dinghy to the nearby Moorea Marina.

Small marina in the southeast of Opunohu Bay, Moorea

The small marina in the south-east of Opunohu Bay is the starting point for today's excursion, which turns out to be quite an expensive affair, at least for one of us. The first stretch takes us along the bay until we reach the Natural History Museum. From there we turn south. The first kilometer is still flat, while the last three kilometers become steadily steeper. The road mostly runs through the forest, so you are protected from the sun. I walk around the last bend and search in vain for the continuation of the path. Standing in front of a stall selling fresh pineapple juice, I ask for directions. Where the restaurant is, I stammer out with a rising sense of foreboding and slight resignation. Meanwhile, Gottfried admires the beautiful view. “Isn't it wonderful up here?” “Very nice Gottfried, but where on earth is the restaurant and where is the cold beer?” "Yes, I've wondered that myself. Torn down, at least disappeared without a trace." “Could it be that we've walked up the wrong mountain?” “Could also be.”

Hiking day, Moorea

We have indeed reached the Belvedere du Opunohu, but we actually wanted to go to the Tropical Garden, which is only three kilometers from our anchorage. Gottfried suspects the worst and so our excursion ends at the O moana Snack Bar, the restaurant where you can relax tired limbs in the water. The cost of this excursion cut deep into his wallet. All in all, however, it was a worthwhile excursion. We visited the Tropical Garden a few days later. There is actually beer up there, if you're lucky and it's not sold out. We got hold of the last bottles and enjoyed the view over the bay.

Tropical Garden viewpoint, Moorea

In the meantime it has stopped raining and after a short delay we weigh anchor and leave Moorea in the evening light. A local weather phenomenon causes the easterly wind to blow weakly from the south at first. We are bobbing off Moorea at less than two knots and our patience is once again put to the test. After we come out of the shadow of the island and there is still no significant change in the wind conditions, I start the engines and we head out into the night at five knots. Just under ten nautical miles northwest of Moorea, the easterly wind sets in at 14 knots. We sail towards Huahine at eight knots over ground. The waves are moderate at two meters and the frequency of nine seconds allows the catamaran to glide through the waves for the most part. Only occasionally does the stern catch a wave and slow us down a little. The stars can be seen and are repeatedly covered by light clouds.

Squall in front of Huahine

Well, and then once again I wasn't paying attention. A squall sneaks up behind me. I'm sucking on a sour drop (how appropriate) when it sneakily approaches with 20 knots of wind. It has spared itself the slight dribble and pours its load down on us like a bucket. My knees are shivering with cold, like a watered poodle, and it's 30°C outside. You have to manage that first. But the magic is over after just a few minutes and dry clothes are quickly put back on. The feeling of well-being returns after a short time. After the sour drop has been sucked, my attention is sharpened again and I take a closer look at the sky, as far as this is possible at night. Apart from a cruise ship that passes us in about three miles, we don't see another ship until the early hours of the morning. At six o'clock in the morning, Huahine appears in front of us. A few squalls hit the island on the east side. We therefore decide to sail to Fare on the leeward side of the island. Heavy squalls kept coming down over the hills, so that leeward sailing seemed a bit exaggerated. At least 14 to 20 knots, which gave us a hard time. We hoist the sails and enter the pass south of Fare.

Ofaiorio anchor field, Huahine

There are supposed to be buoys in the Ofaiorio anchorage. In fact, anchoring here is not exactly easy. The sandy areas are interspersed with rocks and the sand depth is not particularly deep. Both of these factors promise only moderate holding power. So our first attempt fails and we make a second maneuver. The anchor drops to 4.5 meters. Due to the gusts of wind, we use a little more anchor chain than necessary. We find a good hold and are excited to see what the island has to offer. If you want to know what happens next, subscribe to the blog. Until next week, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.