Always a smile on the face

 

Southwest of Samoa

We can enter the marina early in the morning. Our predecessor kept his word and left on time. Marina is almost an exaggeration. After the last cyclone, which tore away most of the jetties, there's not much left. A jetty that is provisionally held together with ropes and straps. Some of the bollards are crooked in the water and don't exactly inspire confidence. At least the electricity and water at the jetty are working. The toilet and shower are located outside the marina, in a harbor building. Sharon tries to make the best of it and takes care of everything. She manages the berths, is available to answer sailors' questions and settles the accounts at the end. The Edge Marina, a pub directly opposite the jetty, plays music for us sailors until midnight. After that and on Sundays, it is quieter and you can get a good night's sleep. Despite everything, we really like it here.

Remains of the Apia Marina, Samoa

Why is that? The procedures, especially when clearing in, often seem complicated and cumbersome, but in Samoa everyone always has a smile on their face. This friendliness is infectious and also spreads to us. Together with SV Tuvalu, we rent a car and take a look around the island. From Apia, we head south-east along the coast. It is rainy, which is normal at this time of year. June has the most rainfall in Samoa. Nature is green, very green. There are brush cutters everywhere to keep this enormous growth of green plants at least somewhat under control. The sights are mainly waterfalls or similar natural monuments. The entrances, usually short walks, are kept in good condition by families. A small entrance fee is charged. The Fuipisia waterfall is the first one we visit that day. The head of the clan tells us the price and smiles at us. The gold clasp appears between the front incisors. Obviously it symbolizes that you have achieved a certain amount of wealth. So I immediately dismiss the idea of having one of these braces fitted in my gap. Especially as the entrance fee, 20 tala for everyone, is quite expensive. We take it in our stride. The water falls more than 50 meters over a ledge into a narrow valley. You can step right up to the precipice. There is no warning sign, let alone a barrier or fence. Everyone has to ensure their own safety. Personal responsibility is still very important here.

Edge of the Fuipisia waterfall, Samoa

Place names such as Lufilufi and Matatufu glide past us. In Malumalu, we stop at a small store. The sales clerk is very friendly and engages us in conversation. She wants to know where we come from and how we like the island. In return, we learn that she is the youngest of three daughters and that her siblings have emigrated to Australia. She herself, who is not married, looks after her parents and the small store that provides a living for the family. In passing, we learn that there are always disputes between the families. Mostly it's about land that one or the other claims. The size of the property seems to manifest the status of the family, and the more you own, the more influence you have in society. Why should this be any different in Samoa than in the rest of the world?

Typical store in Samoa

We drive on and reach the Lava Field Coastal Walkway after another waterfall, Togitogiga. This three-kilometre stretch of coastline is characterized by a lava outcrop. The jungle has long since reclaimed its place. Below it is black lava that breaks off abruptly towards the coast and plunges some 30 meters into the depths. In the south of the island, Samoa is not protected by any outer reef, so the breakers reach the coast unhindered. They break with a loud roar just before the edge and smash white against the deep black edge. An incredible natural spectacle, which you can witness here without a double bottom, let alone a railing.

Lava Field Coastal Walkway, Samoa

We make our way home, but not before visiting another one, the Papapapaitai waterfall. We also visit the Baha'i House of Worship Samoa at the end of the day. A temple for all religions, of which there are only 8 in the whole world.

Baha'i House of Worship, Samoa

The next day takes us west along the north coast. We try to get a remaining place on the ferry so that we might still be able to visit the second island of Samoa, which is separated by the Apolima Strait. Unfortunately, we had to put up with a few delays at the car rental office. The left front tire had no tread left and would have been good for motor racing, but it was no longer suitable for the road conditions in Samoa. The sluggishness of her employee prompted the boss of the house to provide us with another vehicle. Unfortunately, we don't get very far with it either. A clacking noise made Gottfried, as an experienced driver, sit up and take a look. The fine wire of the cascade on the rear tire had worked its way out of the rubber and was now constantly rubbing against the brake line. It was only a matter of time before one of the two gave way. Either the tire or the brake line. A risk we don't want to take and so we are back in the yard after a quarter of an hour. In the meantime, the employee has overcome his inertia and is busy changing the tire. Nevertheless, we still have to wait half an hour before we can finally set off.

Mulifanua ferry terminal, Samoa

When we reach the ferry terminal, there is of course no space available. But the problem is that there are no free spaces for cars on the ferry. People can obviously always find a space. We skip the second island and instead take a look at the southwest of the island we landed on. We head back towards the capital via the central ridge, which is very agricultural. Up here you will also find the pineapple fields, whose large fruits can be found at the market in Apia.

Fruit from the market in Apia, Samoa

If you compare American Samoa with Samoa, the supply options on both islands are limited. What you can get on Samoa is usually very cheap. In American Samoa, Americans in particular benefit from duty-free delivery from the USA. In American Samoa, American products usually predominate, while Chinese and New Zealand products take precedence in Samoa. The selection of fruit and vegetables is significantly greater in Samoa.

Always with a smile on their face, Samoa

We are slowly preparing for our departure so that we can embark on new adventures. If you don't want to miss anything, subscribe to the blog and keep checking back. Until next time, fair winds, and keep a stiff upper lip.