American Samoa

 

Amanave, American Samoa

The dinghy engine rattles across the bay. We are out early in the morning. Very early by our standards. Together with the crew of the Tuvalu, we have hired a car from the Chinese. There is a floating dock about 500 meters from our berth, where we leave our dinghy. The Chinese man didn't keep his word when he promised us that the choice of vehicles would be greater after the weekend. In fact, there was only one vehicle to choose from. Quite dirty, but plenty of space and very comfortable. Our first destination is the airport industrial estate, which promises good shopping opportunities. We would like to stock up on provisions here. The Cost-U-Less offers large containers at a reasonable price. If that's what you need. The KS Mart is a supermarket with a large selection. Ultimately, you shouldn't expect miracles here either. The prices are simply island prices and only marginally cheaper than in French Polynesia. Anyone who sails to American Samoa specifically for provisions will be disappointed.

American Samoa, small island, big cars

But the island has completely different qualities. If we thought that the friendliness and warmth of the people in French Polynesia could not be surpassed anywhere else, we were proven wrong here. This was already noticeable when clearing in and continues in our contact with the people on the island. 

Nice people in American Samoa

We drive via Ili'ili and Leone to the west of the island, to Amanave. There is a small supermarket here where you can buy tuna sandwiches. The owner tells us about her tsunami experience and how she only narrowly escaped fate. We sit on the bench in front of the house and enjoy the view of the sea. The surf is powerful here and breaks against the nearby reef, foaming and roaring. The natural spectacle is impressive and we almost can't tear ourselves away. But of course we want to see more, so we set off and continue on the steeply ascending road to the northwest via two hairpin bends. We finally reach Fagamalo via Poloa and Maloata. This is where the road ends. The northern part of American Samoa is only inhabited on the eastern side of the island. Here in the west, Fagamalo is the only village.

Small supermarket in Amanave, American Samoa

Back in Faleniu, we turn north and drive into the mountains. A'oloau is a small mountain village at the end of the road. From here, it's just a short hike to the north coast to the white sandy beach of Aasu. What strikes us is that there are countless churches in Samoa. According to the literature, there must be around 400. Quite a lot for such a small island, we think. The next thing we notice are the so-called guesthouses. An open building structure, round or rectangular, with a roof supported by pillars. Every large family has an inn like this. All kinds of celebrations are held in these inns, which are usually built in front of the family home. Weddings, family celebrations of all kinds and probably also funerals. 

Guesthouses on American Samoa

Which brings us to our third conspicuous feature. In American Samoa, relatives are buried in the front garden. There are more or less large gravesites on almost every plot. Some of them are crypts that take up part of the veranda. Obviously, people feel an obligation to their loved ones after death and want them to be as close as possible to the family's continued life. Samoans pay a lot for such a funeral, but even afterwards the stone slabs are decorated with colorful wreaths of flowers.

Burial site on American Samoa

The next day we explore the east of the island. On the other side of Pago Pago Bay is Aua. This is where the gas station is located, which also fills bottles. Unfortunately, a gas tanker is lying in the roadstead, so there is no gas today. The friendly employee apologizes a few times for not being able to help us and asks us to come back tomorrow. We take it in our stride and fill our bottle the next day. We drive along the coast via Aumi and Alofau to Auasi. Here there is a ferry connection to the nearby island of Aunu'u. The surf plays with the small aluminum catamarans and their 40 hp outboards, so that a crossing to the island can be classified as an adventure. As such a vessel offers little protection from the weather and another rain front is approaching, we decide against it.

Ferry connection to the island of Aunu'u, American Samoa

Instead, we drive to Onenoa, where the road ends in the northeast. As on the previous day, there is no road along the north coast to the east. The bays and the villages that lie in them can all be reached via spur roads from the south. We drive to Aoa, Sa'ilele, as well as Masaui and Masefau. We reach Aua, Afono and Vatai via a steep mountain road. The last village we are missing on the island is Fagasa. But even this bay does not remain undiscovered by us. 

Rock formation near Fagasa, American Samoa

All in all, we probably saw almost every village and met nice people in every place. Apart from the memorial to the plane crash in 1980, when a plane hit the old cable car and then crashed into a hotel, there aren't too many sights on the island. In 1992, a hurricane destroyed the cable car for good. Today you can only see the sad remains of the mountain station. Nevertheless, the island impresses with its unique nature. The supply options, especially as far as marine equipment is concerned, are rather poor. The restaurants offer large portions at a decent price, which we really appreciate after our long stay in French Polynesia. You'll find out what happens next week in our blog. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.