Hurray, we've reached Fiji!

The rock in front of us is not marked on any map. We initially mistakenly assigned it to the Yasawa Islands. Even in retrospect, we cannot determine with certainty whether it ultimately belongs to this archipelago. Ultimately, it doesn't matter. Early in the morning, someone shouts from the cockpit: “Hurray, we've reached Fiji!”

Ever-changing colors on the high seas

I'm still a little tired and just waking up. The last two days have been very exhausting. When we sailed away from Tuvalu, the weather conditions were ideal. We had beautiful weather and the squalls did us a favor by passing behind or in front of us. The further south we go, the less wind we have during the day. The squalls are no longer passing us by, but over us, and the sea is becoming rougher in places. During the night, the wind picks up to 25 knots and we have to reef the sails. To reach Fiji during the day, we reduce the sails once again. We cross the reef edge in the early morning. We are still 80 miles from our destination, Vuda Point, where we want to clear customs. Unfortunately, the wind is dying down more and more. We start the port engine. We take in the mainsail because it is flapping too much. The genoa still provides a little forward momentum. The wind from the east creates a calm sea with almost no waves. Fantastic conditions when you think back to the previous days. The waves on the high seas came from the southeast, repeatedly crashing against the bow and spraying the entire boat with sea spray. A thick crust of salt covers the Katinka Enjoy. Everything you touch is sticky, and the measuring instruments, including the plotter, have to be cleaned of this coating again and again, otherwise you can't see anything.

Beautiful anchorages waiting to be discovered

The first boats reappear on the AIS and show us the many anchorage options available on the islands. We are looking forward to exploring the area. With the yellow flag, we are only allowed to anchor in an emergency. So first we have to clear customs. We have reserved a spot at Vuda Marina, and this is where we will officially enter Fiji. We deliberately chose the longer route because it has fewer shoals and the fairway is wider than the direct route. In the northwest of Viti Levu, there are numerous shoals and rocks in the way. This is particularly a problem at night. There is a narrow fairway, but if you are not familiar with the area, it is better to choose the safe option. At least that's what we do.

Last sunset before Fiji

When we reach the southern tip of the last Yasawa Island, it is the middle of the night. As we watch a beautiful sunset, the wind has completely died down and only our diesel engine is still providing propulsion. Off Waya Island, we turn southeast. The green buoy is lit and shows us the way. However, we have to watch out for the offshore rock, which is not lit. Another green buoy to the south of Waya Island helps us to stay on course. Out of the blue, the wind suddenly picks up and it starts to rain. The wind is coming straight from the front and I have to switch on the second engine to maintain our speed. This is the only way we can keep to the estimated time of arrival that we reported to the marina. The rain eases off after a short time, but the wind remains. Nevertheless, we reach Vuda Point at half past seven in the morning as planned.

Sunrise at Vuda Point, Fiji

On channel 11, we are asked to drop anchor near the yellow buoy. Another boat is waiting to clear customs. We would be next in line. After a good two hours, the time has come. We weigh anchor and sail into the marina. At the jetty, we are greeted by a group of Fijians who sing us a welcome song. A wonderful gesture, we think. Now it's time to wait. First, the health department shows up. The official is friendly and everything is done in fifteen minutes. Customs, immigration, and biosecurity then arrive at the same time. But that also goes completely smoothly. Now we have officially arrived in Fiji. There have been a few losses. Our turmeric, a few onions, and our chili peppers have been confiscated. All in all, clearing customs in Fiji costs €250. A hefty price, in our opinion. Nevertheless, we shout together: “Hurray, we've reached Fiji!”

Welcome to Vuda Marina, Fiji

We are assigned a spot that we just barely fit into. There are mooring lines in the harbor basin to which the bow line from the boat is attached. Unfortunately, I overlook one that then wraps around my starboard propeller. Very embarrassing! A quick dive solves the problem. We are pulled into the box for the last bit and squeeze in between an Amel and the jetty. I have truly earned my beer for the mooring manoeuvre. I pay at the marina office and can also apply for my cruising permit at the same time as the customs report. As customs happens to be in the marina office, I get the stamp straight away and can now move freely around the islands for six months. Of course, here in Fiji, we have to ask the village chief for permission in every anchorage. This is called sevusevu. It is a ceremony in which the guest presents the village chief with kava roots, which are then used to make a welcome drink. We will tell you what this is all about and how it works in the next blog. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.