Bula Bula

The Fijians are very friendly, and you hear “Bula Bula,” which means ‘hello’ or “good day,” everywhere you go. We are still moored in Vuda Marina, which we chose because it offers assistance with clearing customs in Fiji. The marina itself is in perfect condition. The people are courteous and the infrastructure has everything a sailor needs. However, this comes at a price. For catamarans in particular, there is a hefty 200% surcharge. For our Katinka Enjoy, that's €80 per day. It's also a bit out of the way. 

Vuda Marina, Fiji

It takes about half an hour by bus to Lautoka and about 50 minutes to Nadi. There is a market and several supermarkets in Lautoka. Here we can stock up on provisions. The prices are significantly cheaper than in French Polynesia. We also buy kava roots at the market. Kava, or intoxicating pepper, is, as the word suggests, a member of the pepper family. The kava root is crushed, ground, and then mixed with water. Kava relaxes and improves general well-being. It causes a slight loss of sensation in the mouth. The roots, wrapped in newspaper, can be bought in various quantities at the market. They are presented to the chief of each village as gifts and, at the same time, permission is requested to anchor in the anchorage bay. We have a few roots packed up for us and look forward to our first sevusevu. The return trip by bus is adventurous. We return to the marina in the afternoon. School is out and the bus stops at every milk can. Again and again, students get off and new ones get on. We then take a dirt road to one last school before reaching the marina. Shortly before the marina, the bus stops on request. Since it is only fifty meters to Vuda Marina, we also want to get off. But we didn't count on the bus driver. He insists on driving us the last few meters and lets us off under the big tree at the marina entrance. We thank him with a friendly “Bula Bula.”

Market in Lautoka, Fiji

But our days in the marina are numbered. We are planning the next few days and weeks. First, we want to stay here in the area. In mid-August, we will have visitors from Germany. Until then, we want to explore the islands in the west of Fiji a little. First on the agenda is Malolo Island. Musket Cove is very sheltered. It's an ideal starting point for our not-so-seaworthy crew, who we will be taking on board in August. The tsunami triggered by an earthquake off Kamchatka no longer has any impact on Fiji. We leave the marina two days later. It is just 16 nautical miles from Vuda Point to Malolo Island. Unfortunately, there is no wind, so we have to cover the distance by motor. On the port side, we see the masts of the boats moored in Denerau in the distance. On the starboard side, we pass the small island of Mala Mala. From a distance, you can already see the floating bar “Seventh Heaven.” At fifty FD landing fee, it's not cheap to have a beer. But I don't think Walle, one of our guests in August, will be deterred from visiting this place. The structure, which lies in the middle of the water, looks like a building from Kevin Costner's Waterworld. Like the movie, you have to see the bar at least once in your life.

Floating bar off Malolo Island, Fiji

The whole of Fiji is dotted with shoals. At least everywhere we've been so far. And because there are so many, the charts, especially those from Navionics, are very inaccurate. We use the latest technology and consult satellite images. In Musket Cove in particular, you have to avoid one or two reef edges. To be on the safe side, I place Gaby at the bow as a lookout. At two o'clock, we reach our new anchorage and drop the anchor 14 meters into the sand. In Musket Cove, we meet the SY Meerla again. We first met Nelly and Allan in Shelter Bay. Last year, I met them again in New Zealand when I transferred our old Katinka. Focused on the reef, we sailed past without noticing them, and even waving vigorously didn't help. But that didn't stop them from visiting us in their dinghy. As always, such meetings are very helpful. You learn new things that are important locally and make life easier. And it's always interesting to find out what the others have been up to since we last saw them. It was great to see you again.

Musket Cove Anchorage, Fiji

Of course, we can't miss out on an anchor beer at our new anchorage, and I'm starting to get hungry. We decide to stay on board for today and postpone exploring the island until tomorrow. Malolo Lailai is purely a resort island, so we don't need to ask the village chief for permission. The Sevusevu will have to be postponed. But postponed is not canceled. Maybe we'll have the opportunity next week. We'll see. You'll find out next week whether we take part in a Sevusevu ceremony. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.