Montezuma's Revenge

In specialist literature, Montezuma's revenge is said to be caused by the intestinal bacterium Escherichia coli. Other sources claim that fecal germs or parasites are the cause. Whether there is a connection between these factors is beyond my knowledge. In any case, the course of the disease is just as unappetizing as it sounds. Your bowels empty more uncontrollably than you can manage, and your stomach vomits upwards. Once you have completely lost control of your body, both may happen at the same time. We already sensed something was wrong with us during the night. Restless sleep and an upset stomach heralded trouble. The next two days were terrible. Fortunately, we have enough toilets on board, but that doesn't solve the problem of simultaneity. Body control is everything. Full concentration is essential to ensure that nothing ends up in your pants. If necessary, the only thing that helps is a bucket. Gaby identifies the trigger as a sandwich she served us for lunch with a mayonnaise and tuna spread. The spread had been used the day before and stored in the refrigerator. In any case, no one needs something like that.

All hell breaks loose, Blue Lagoon Fiji

After two days, we feel better and set off again. Our destination is Somosomo Bay on the island of Naviti. Our bowels are still rumbling violently, but they have stopped emptying. Of course, now that they are completely empty. The pressure on my stomach has given way to unpleasant heartburn. I think of the kava ceremony and how lucky we are in situations like this. So far, we have always obediently handed over our kava bouquet and then been invited by the respective village leader to enter the island and anchor in the bay. We have never experienced the actual sevusevu, where you drink kava from a coconut half-shell. Now that we are not feeling particularly well, that could well be the case. Murphy's Law comes to mind. Next, I remember what I read about Montezuma's revenge. Something about fecal bacteria in drinking water. The kava broth looks exactly the same. My stomach turns and my intestines make strange noises. I start a discussion about whether we should have Somosomo at all. Gaby is no longer quite sure either. 

Manta Ray Resort, Nanuya Balavu Fiji

Finally, we abandon our plans and turn to starboard. Just in time to pass the inner reef of the island. The weather has cleared up somewhat, so we can clearly see the narrow passage between the inner and outer reefs. We sail along the west side of Naviti Island. Like the rest of the Yasawas, it is a beautiful spot. Drawaqa Island is located to the south. The island is also known as Manta Island. Many manta rays can be seen in the narrow passages between the islands. The water off the island is 30 meters deep, and you have to venture quite close to the island to find a decent anchorage. At night, you can hear the surf as if it were coming right through your bunk. Now, at the end of the season, we are the only ones here. On the island of Nanuya Balavu, separated by a pass, lies the Mantaray Island Resort. It's probably due to advertising that the name “Mantaray” is found everywhere here. The resort is very cozy and also very friendly to guests coming from the anchored yachts. 

Pizza at Manta Ray Resort

What's more, the pizza is supposed to be gigantic. Yes, yes, I know, in our current situation we should be sensible and eat light meals. But sensible is boring, so we each order a pizza. The pizza was really gigantic, but with a lot of cheese, which then gave us trouble during the night. At least one person from southeastern Styria comes to mind who will roll their eyes at this. Well, the whole thing dragged on for another two days, but we're fine now and have survived Montezuma's revenge.

On the road to recovery

Just in time, because 18 knots of wind from the east are forecast for the next day. Ideal weather for sailing south to Musket Cove, 35 miles away. We set off early so that we have enough time for the unexpected. There is no wind, but the weather forecast still predicts 18 knots. So it will come. We leave the inner reef and set sail. At least we already have five knots of wind from the east. Shortly before Waya Island, we have 11 knots of wind. That's still not 18 knots, but at least we're sailing at just over five knots over ground. However, the wind dies down in Kuata. The wind gauge actually reads 0.0 knots. In all my years of sailing, I have never seen a reading of 0.0 knots. Even when we were sailing from Panama to the Gambier Islands for 51 days and were stuck in calm conditions for days on end, there was always a little wind, even if it was only one knot. Well, at least there's no debate about whether we're now close to 18 knots and whether the weather forecast is accurate or not. Today, it's definitely not accurate. So I'm going to be the eco-warrior and start both engines. We cover the remaining 20 miles under engine power. 

Back at Musket Cove

The sun beats down mercilessly on us and even the wind from sailing provides no relief. At midday, the mast is the only source of shade. Even after Montezuma's revenge, the mast is still too narrow for me to provide any shade. We reach Musket Cove in the afternoon and moor there at a buoy. Here, too, you can feel that the season is coming to an end. It has become much quieter since our last visit. But for us, the season is far from over. Next week, we will be busy preparing for our trip to New Zealand. With that in mind: always fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip. And stay out of Montezuma's way.