Of pirates and whalers

Russell is one of the oldest towns in New Zealand and was even the capital for a short time. At the end of the 18th century, the town was inhabited by Māori and was called Kororareka. The first Europeans arrived at the beginning of the 19th century. Initially, they were whalers and traders who established one of New Zealand's first trading centers in the town. The city grew rapidly, and other people joined them. Convicts from Australia and deserted sailors quickly made this place known as the hellhole of the Pacific. The city was then renamed after the English Prime Minister Lord John Russell and, after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, was briefly the capital of New Zealand. However, in September 1840, Auckland was chosen as the capital, which greatly angered the then Māori tribal leader Hone Heke, who started a war against the English. In 1845, he pillaged the town, and the white population fled to Auckland. It took the British three attempts before they regained control of the situation in 1846.

Harbor promenade, Russell, New Zealand

New Zealand's oldest church was spared from the events, except for a few bullet holes, and can still be visited today. There is no sign of the rough fellows today. However, Russell has retained its old Victorian style, and it seems as if time has stood still. We walk along the harbor front and imagine how the whalers used to argue and fight with the sailors. The church is simple and plain, and the cemetery in front of it is much more interesting. Here, you can see the population structure of the 19th century reflected in the gravestones.

Church in Russell, New Zealand

After enjoying the hike to the Harurus waterfalls last week, we set off to climb Flagstaff Hill. From up here, you have a fantastic view of Russell and the Bay of Islands. From Flagstaff Hill, we continue to Tapeka and the Tapeka viewpoint. This viewpoint is also worth the effort of the climb. We take the way back through a dense forest of trees and ferns. The kiwi is native here, but we don't get to see any, as the animals are nocturnal. Back in Russell, we stop for a drink in one of the quaint pubs. Back on the Katinka Enjoy, we prepare the boat for the next stage of our journey. We want to go to Whangamumu Harbor, where there is an old whaling station.

View from Flagstaff Hill, Russell

Tapeka Bay of Islands viewpoint

Hiking trail through tree-high ferns, Russell

The wind is rather weak the next morning but picks up during the day, so we manage very well with our genoa. The passage between Otuwhanga Island and the islands of Tiheru and Motukokako is spectacular. We leave the Bay of Islands and marvel at the huge hole that the waves have carved through the rock of Motukokako Island. 

Motukokako Island, New Zealand

Five nautical miles to the south lies the sheltered bay of Whangamumu, which, as its name suggests, served as a harbor for whalers in the past. Our anchor drops six meters into the sand. Another catamaran and two fishing boats are our neighbors for the night. We get the dinghy ready and head to the beach to see the remains of the whaling station. Here, too, nature has reclaimed much of the area. A small stream fed by a nearby waterfall flows into the sea right next to the station. The stream is overgrown with tree-high ferns and lush greenery. Immediately after the stony beach, you step into another world. The jungle engulfs you, and within seconds you are no longer visible from the bay. The whaling station bears witness to an old, bygone era. Buildings that were once nailed together from planks are, of course, no longer there. But the vats in which the whale meat was cooked and the old steam boiler are still standing. You can also see the ramp on which the whale was pulled ashore. All in all, it is a morbid place left to decay. Eerily beautiful.

Katinka Enjoy in Whangamumu Harbor, New Zealand

Old boiler at the Whangamumu Harbor whale station

The next morning, we continue on to Tutukaka Harbor. Unfortunately, we have to cover most of the approximately 25 nautical miles under engine power. But we want to be in a safe bay in good time before the forecast low-pressure system, which is expected to bring winds of up to 35 knots. We reach Tutukaka and drop anchor at a depth of six meters. Due to the weather forecast, we give a little more chain, which proves to be very advantageous. During the night, the wind starts to blow strongly, and I hope that the repaired bridle will hold. The weather does not improve the next day either. On the contrary, thunderstorms begin, and rain showers pass over us. The wind actually reaches up to 35 knots in gusts. It is not until the next day that the wind gradually subsides and we can go ashore. 

Tutukaka Harbour, New Zealand

There is a very good pizzeria in the marina and a small supermarket in town. After stocking up on provisions, we try the pizza, which is actually delicious and comes out of a wood-fired oven. Tomorrow we will continue on to Whangarei. We will probably cover most of this route under motor power as well, as the wind forecasts are rather poor. After sealing another small leak under the kitchen unit today, we will use Whangarei for extensive maintenance work. Filters need to be replaced, the water maker will be mothballed, and spare parts will be procured once again. If you don't want to miss anything, subscribe to our blog. See you next week, fair winds, and keep a stiff upper lip.