Sailors Ashore

Kapfenstein Castle and Riegesburg Castle were each built on a volcanic rock outcrop. They served as border and regional fortresses and protected Eastern Styria during the Turkish Wars. They also repelled numerous attacks by the Hungarians and Kurucs. Due to their prominent locations, the castle and the fortress are visible from far across the countryside. Neither was ever captured, and both are well-preserved. Today, Kapfenstein Castle serves as a hotel and winery, while Riegesburg Castle is used for tourism. If you’re in the region, they’re definitely worth a visit.

Riegesburg, Southeastern Styria, Austria

A visit to Graz, the provincial capital, is a must. The city has a unique charm and has masterfully struck a balance between the old and the new. Historic buildings are very well preserved, and new ones are seamlessly integrated into the cityscape. Examples include the Zeughaus in the city center and the Murinsel. On our way back to Upper Styria, we stop by the city. As in any major city, parking is a challenge. It takes a bit of patience and a bit of luck to snag a free parking spot. We find a free parking spot near the city center along the Mur River. The maximum parking time here is three hours, and it costs eight euros. We reach the main square via Herrengasse, Graz’s main shopping street. Roughly in the middle stands the Landeszeughaus, whose inner courtyard is definitely worth a look.

Graz State Armory, Austria

At the northern end of the main square is Sporgasse, a shopping street lined with boutiques and cafés. Sporgasse also leads to Hofgasse, where the Hofbäckerei is located, with its hand-carved wooden facade and gilded double eagles. Sackstrasse also opens onto the northern end of the main square. It takes you to Schlossbergplatz, from where you can catch a glimpse of Graz’s clock tower. At the end of Schlossbergplatz is the Kriegssteig. As a child, I used to climb the 421 steps up to the clock tower time and time again. Back then, it was still called the Russensteig because it was built between 1912 and 1914 by engineers and prisoners of war. It’s 22 steps from Schlossbergplatz to the entrance. From there to the Rosengarten, it’s 322 steps, and another 77 steps to the Clock Tower. Back then, I managed the 80-meter climb in under 10 minutes. Today, I prefer the elevator or, if you continue along Sackstrasse, the Schlossbergbahn.

Schlossbergplatz, Graz, Austria

If you cross Sackstrasse at Schlossbergplatz and walk toward the Mur River, you’ll reach the entrance to Murinsel. On the other side of the Mur is Mariahilfer Church and Mariahilferplatz, where we always used to play as children. Today, Mariahilferstrasse—from Südtiroler Platz up to and including Lendplatz—is home to trendy bars and restaurants. Only the Kunsthaus, located between Kosakengasse and Südtiroler Platz, seems a bit out of place and somehow squeezed in there. There’s no denying that some of the restaurants in this area have a certain coffeehouse vibe. Just give it a try.

Murinsel, Graz, Austria

Via Bruck an der Mur and Eisenerz, we head back to Upper Styria. From here, we set off once again for Germany. Angela and Franz, from the Nina, have invited us to their place. We met them in New Zealand, and like us, they’re spending the New Zealand winter in Germany, in their home region of Lower Bavaria. A lovely barbecue evening sets the tone. There’s plenty to talk about, and luckily, not everything revolves around sailing that evening. When sailors are ashore, they certainly have other topics to discuss as well.

Barbecue at Angela and Franz's

The nearby Danube is currently at low water levels, which is significantly hindering navigation. We’re taking a city tour of Vilshofen. Vilshofen was first mentioned in historical records as early as 776. In 1206, Count Heinrich I of Ottenburg granted Vilshofen town status. On May 12, 1794, one of the many fires that plagued the town destroyed nearly the entire city.

Downtown Vilshofen, Germany

The Regensburg–Passau railway line opened in 1860. Unfortunately, this line is currently in need of renovation, so we have to make do with a rail replacement bus service on our way to Stuttgart. After 2.5 hours, we arrive in Landshut by bus. From there, we continue on to Stuttgart via Munich and Ulm. After dealing with overcrowded trains and revelers, I’m growing increasingly fed up with public transportation, and I’ve decided to avoid this form of travel for the time being. We’ll therefore be organizing our trip to Switzerland differently. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.