Alone Like a Rolling Stone

Rum, rum, a bottle of rum

20 knots of wind and a good two meter high wave between the islands make the trip to Bequia a demanding undertaking. Not that that wasn't enough, off Bequia a squal passes through, and the current with 1.5 knots puts us well to the west. Canouan is off the stern and we are heading for Friendship Bay in Bequia. Nevertheless, the current moves us about 1.5 nautical miles from the western tip of Bequia, which we have to round to enter Admiralty Bay.

Admiralty Bay, Bequia

Canouan a small insignificant blob on the map. The south is characterized by a luxury marina, the north in private hands and in the middle of it the simple people. They are friendly and nice, and very open to strangers. This may be due to the fact that tourism does not really want to develop. For about 7000EC$, which is about 2400€, per night, the clientele stays rather among themselves and rarely leaves the resort. Where should it also go. The place very dusty and run down, the north in private hands, remains rather for itself. Only the marina with its shopping mile is a destination for this kind of tourism. That's why we are almost alone in the bay. In the Coconut Bar, where we land our dinghy on the beach, we meet a couple from Graz, who also live on the boat. Landing here is a bit difficult, because the ferry jetty is unsuitable for a longer lie with the dinghy. With friendly help we find a suitable place in front of the Coconut Bar. We discover an ATM, but unfortunately it is out of order. In the afternoon it resumes its operation, so that we can stock up with the most necessary things at some market stalls. A friendly merchant delivers water bottles to our dinghy while we try the best rum punch on the island at the Coconut Bar. From a fisherman we meet in the bar we get valuable tips for snorkeling. During the night violent gusts, with up to 40 knots, whistle down the mountain, causing us to leave for Bequia the next day. We set the main at the anchorage and sail out of Charlestown Bay.

Charlestown Bay, Canouan

We reach up to eight knots of speed and the wave shakes us vigorously. The sky closes more and more and from the east the first squal approaches. A catamaran in front of us turns around. We turn and let the rain pass through. Afterwards we continue our journey again.

On the way from Canouan to Bequia

We reach Admiralty Bay in Port Elizabeth on Bequia and drop anchor at Princess Margaret Beach. The anchor does not find a proper hold and we have to repeat the anchor maneuver. At three meters the anchor finally digs in and holds us safely, even at 30 knots in the squall. Bequia is not comparable to any Caribbean island we have visited so far. The infrastructure is much better geared to mass tourism and the houses on the slopes show that this works well. We meet the crew of the SY Kivavera. Gabriela and Thomas contacted us the first time in French Guyana because they were interested in the country. Here on Bequia we meet them and spend an interesting evening on the Kivavera. After we have explored Port Elizabeth and visit the market and various supermarkets, I try, in a bar, a rum that the bartender under the counter, pours out to his local guests. I ask him if I can try the once. He smiles at me and pours me a sip. Pfooor!!! The methanol taste prevails, burning the crystal clear liquid runs down the throat. I struggle for breath and try not to let anything show, which I don't succeed in doing. I take a sip of Coke, in front of which Gaby sits, and the clouded view slowly sharpens again. Devil's stuff! Two of them would put the synapses responsible for keeping the muscles running when walking upright out of action and only allow crawling on all fours. That's why I gratefully do without a second helping. 

Hiking on Bequia

We decide to take a hike to Friendship Bay. The bay in the south of the island has a beautiful beach. The paths lead from the beach steeply up the mountain, at the top you run very relaxed along the slope. The trip is really fun and you get to know the people best in the small bars along the way.

Friendship Bay, Bequia

From Fort Hamilton you have a great view over Admiralty Bay. The fort is strategically located and secured the bay. Jack Sparrow must have found it difficult to enter the bay unnoticed, although it certainly appealed to him to visit Port Elizabeth.

Port Elizabeth, Bequia

We will spend Easter on Bequia and wish all our fans and readers a Happy Easter and many colorful Easter eggs. Always fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.

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