Hello, how are you?

 

Anchorage, Tuvalu

Tuvalu is a separate island state that is strongly supported by Australia in particular. It lies roughly halfway between Australia and Hawaii. As soon as we clear in, we quickly realize that the clocks tick differently in Tuvalu than elsewhere. On Friday morning, we are standing in front of the immigration door in one of the largest buildings in Tuvalu. We knock on the door during opening hours and open it. Behind the door is a dark room in which chaos reigns like in a junk room. Not a soul to be seen. At the reception desk of the large administration building, we learn that today is a big clean-up day and all the officials are out collecting plastic bottles and cans. There is also a passenger plane landing today that has to be processed by immigration. Incidentally, the runway is also used as a playground for the children when no plane is taking off or landing. That is why a siren is always sounded to warn of an airplane.

Airport, Tuvalu

We try customs. At the counter, a nice man tells us that all the officials are on their way. As the weekend was approaching, we wouldn't be able to clear in until Monday and we would have to stay on the boat until then. Somehow he realizes himself that this is not a solution. He quickly discards the idea of sending us to the port for customs clearance. Instead, he comes up with the crucial idea of sending a colleague to the neighboring airport building to inform the responsible officials of our arrival. We wait in the lobby and after half an hour a customs officer actually arrives and has us fill out the usual paperwork. We are forwarded to biosecurity and fill out another form. Back in the lobby, we run into the arms of immigration. She apologizes profusely for the mess because they are currently changing. Unfortunately, she can't find the necessary forms in the chaos. It's a good thing the airport building isn't too far away and after a quarter of an hour we fill out another form. With the stamp in our passports, we are almost cleared. The only thing missing is the health department. We are directed there and given an appointment, but have to wait another half an hour. In the meantime, word has gotten around the building that a few crazy sailors have made it to Tuvalu. We are greeted by the head of the education authority and learn a lot about the school system on the island. At some point, the head of the health authority turns up and fills out another form for us. He makes sure that we are all healthy and finally gives his approval. Now we are officially cleared to enter Tuvalu.

Main road on Tuvalu

The next challenge is to obtain cash. On the island, all transactions are carried out in cash. There are no card payments. There are now three ATMs, one at the airport, one at the bank and one in the town center. Unfortunately, these do not yet accept Visa or MasterCard. The only option is to exchange cash for Australian dollars. There is an extra exchange counter at the National Bank of Tuvalu. When we ask when the ATMs will be available for international use, the answer is a shrug of the shoulders: maybe next year. Ok, we won't live to see it. But no matter, we are now ready for action and because it can get very hot on Tuvalu, we need something to drink first.

Typical house on Tuvalu

Tuvalu is said to be extremely exposed to climate change. This is said to pose a very serious threat to the population. That may be partly true, but the people here are very relaxed about the threat. Fishing continues to feed the population. Agriculture, which is said to be under threat, is non-existent apart from pig farming. The population has therefore always been dependent on imports of fruit and vegetables. Apart from palm trees and breadfruit, not much grows on an atoll. China has launched a project to grow vegetables on the island on a small area of land. In addition to fish, it is mainly frozen food from Australia and New Zealand that supplies the people here. In addition to a high density of motorcycles, the HIV rate is very high. Most of the people live simply in small, wooden houses. The families are large and there is an above-average number of children. When you walk through the streets, you hear from all sides: “Hello, how are you?” They look at you sheepishly and the best thing for them is when they can touch you. So we walk down the street clapping our hands and wonder how few people can get by with and still radiate such a zest for life. Everywhere we go, we are asked where we come from. Again and again, we look into astonished faces when we say that we came to Tuvalu by boat.

Hello, how are you? Children on Tuvalu

We hire a scooter so that we can explore the island outside the main village. The road network is 15 kilometers long in total. So even without a road map, it's easy to get around. Hiring the scooter proves to be very easy. No driving license or proof of identity is required. We are provided with the ignition keys and off we go. In the southwest, we quickly reach the end of the road and shoo a couple out of the bushes. Sand is currently being pumped out of the lagoon and packed into sacks. These are then used to reinforce the land. A measure to prevent land erosion. We turn around and head north. Even on the scooters, people wave to us from all sides and shout “Hello, how are you?”. By the way, helmets are not compulsory in Tuvalu, there are simply no helmets on the island. Incidentally, the locals usually ride their motorcycles barefoot or in flip-flops. Due to a lack of calluses, I at least use sneakers. We pass the harbor and reach the garbage dump. A sandy track leads past it and we reach the last houses on a beautiful beach. Here, too, there are children who, after some hesitation, give us a coconut. We visit the power station, which supplies the electricity for the whole island and was out of action at the weekend. There was no electricity on the island on Sunday and Monday. The emergency generators were chugging away on every street corner. This is tragic because a lot of food is kept in freezers here. At the end of our excursion, we visit a Chinese restaurant where we involuntarily witness a police operation. The owner got into an argument with a local woman, who then called the police without further ado. In the end, everyone calmed down again.

On the road with a scooter on Tuvalu

In the evening, we sit in our favorite pub and drink our beer. Just as we are about to get up, the landlady asks us to stay. She explains to us that prayers are said between a quarter to seven and seven o'clock and that nobody is allowed to move from A to B on the island. In fact, we notice that not a single moped is on the road and the streets are empty. At seven o'clock sharp, life on Tuvalu resumes. A nice custom, I think. We say goodbye for this time with the phrase “Hello, how are you?” and wish you always fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip until next time.