Alone Like a Rolling Stone


Periplaneta americana, is the name of the critters and they grow quite large. Ours were four centimeters long and agile. The first we discover in the evening in the cockpit as it runs over our feet. After the first shock, we have already expected since the Canaries that the plague stands us in the boat, we drive mighty guns on. The insect spray from Gran Canaria, is used and the American cockroach is sprayed with it, which she obviously does not like at all. After initially fast movements, it becomes slower and slower and finally reaches a speed in which I get them to grab. With a paper towel, of course. As is so common in seafaring, the stowaway is keelhauled, which she ultimately did not survive. We hope that this specimen was the only one on board. Unfortunately, no. The next evening, I was just on my way to the fridge to fix my sundowner, the next cockroach scurries across the floor. Also again a splendid specimen of her kind. But it also suffers the same fate as the first. Whether it was killed by the insect spray or by the keel hauling, we don't care in the end, we just hope that now, two weeks after this incident, none of them will show up again. We realize, of course, that these won't be the last we discover on board, but we're not keen on having such actions every week either.

Clear in Charlestown, Nevis

Our crew list is now correct again, and so we moor off Charlestown at a mooring buoy and visit the immigration office and customs. Since we could not do the antigen test in Montserrat, the nice lady from the immigration office organizes an appointment at the hospital so that we can catch up on the test. In the afternoon we get the result and can start with the actual clearance. It goes relatively quickly, and surprised us a little, if one has previously, in the relevant forums, the comments of other crews, read. We are also treated super friendly. After the immigration office, we still have to go to customs and the port authority. At customs 12US$ are due, for the stay at a mooring buoy another 40US$ at the port authority. After the office stuff is done, we have a look at Charlestown. A long sandy beach leads out of town along the west coast. Hotels, permanently closed and those that survived the two years of chaos, alternate with beach bars. We meet nice people who seek conversation. We are happy to learn a bit about the country and its people. 

The hygiene concept also works at beach bars

We would have liked to stay a little longer but the hurricane season is approaching and we want to see St. Kitts. But before we can go I have to go to the mast and replace the broken pulley of the main halyard. The thing is actually nothing big, but gets complicated at a high swell. After I have tapped my fingers a few times with a hammer, the bolt loosens and I can insert the replacement pulley.

Remains of the pulley from the masthead

We sail to White House Bay on St. Kitts. Here, or rather in the salt lake behind it, a marina is to be built. The marina already exists, but all facilities are closed. Well, Corona has also stopped enormous investments here. The planned golf course was not started as a precaution. A marinero gives us a tip for a restaurant about 2 miles from the marina, but forgets to mention that Monday is closing day. What the heck, at least we got to stretch our legs and monkeys run across our path. We didn't expect that here on the island. Obviously, there are a few of them, because two days later, on a hike near Basseterre run us again a few over the way. 

Monkeys on St. Kitts

We transfer to Frigate Bay, where one beach bar borders on another. However, tourists are probably carted there from the nearby cruise terminal. This is noticeable in the price. With 12,50EC$, that are approximately 4US$ a bottle of beer strikes here to beech. We do without more and take our sundowner on board. We will now look at Basseterre, take the opportunity to clear out there and make our way south, once across the Caribbean Sea. 

Anchorage Frigate Bay, St. Kitts

You'll find out how we fared next week, here on Glenswelt. Until then, as always, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.