Landfall

The anchor drops to 16 meters, the chain rushes out. We give everything we have, 60 meters. Since we prefer to anchor at five meters, this has always been sufficient, only here we have the five meters at the very maximum on the outer reef. The anchor depths here are between 12 and 20 meters. It is not that easy to anchor on the Gambiers, but let's take it one step at a time.

Arrived at the Gambiers

As announced by the weather forecast, a doldrums wedge pushes itself between us and the Gambier Islands. It holds us for two days and we get just 30 nautical miles further. After the two days the weather takes pity on us and sends us 10 knots of wind which increases, within a few hours, up to 30 knots. So there is either no wind at all in the Pacific or then really on the cap. Since the wind then also comes from the south-southeast, we sail a downwind course with an ugly cross sea, which hits the boat terribly. That can one after scarcely 50 days on sea straight also still use. But, as I've said a few times, you can't choose that. Even though the wind is very strong, we have relatively little speed in the boat due to the acute wind angle. So the planned arrival date is postponed again for two days. On the 51st day we pass the outer reef of the Gambier Islands at 03:00 in the morning, at a distance of two nautical miles. We have to change course and head for the pass. At some point we have 25 knots, in gusts up to 30 knots, on the nose and almost can't get off the spot. We actually both assumed that it would be calmer in the lagoon. Unfortunately far from it. Since we are too slow and the wave builds up a mords pressure, it creates our autopilot no longer course to hold. So I steer by hand and keep our Katinka in the fairway, which I succeed only with difficulty. At some point we realize that with the quiet lagoon, today probably nothing more and we suspect bad for our anchorage. Finally we reach this, after we have circumnavigated innumerable shoals. The fairway is well marked, but the entrance at night is not recommended. Also the anchorage at the entrance of the lagoon, right next to the fairway, is not a real option, because there a big wave sets directly into the anchorage. We finally reach the anchorage at 11:30. The wave is much lower than in the lagoon, but the wind, at 20 to 25 knots, is still blowing pretty hard. The whole thing has to go fast now. Unexpectedly many yachts are moored in the bay. If the Schwoi circle is a bit larger, it just needs more space. The anchor ground is deep, but it holds well. Despite the strong wind, the anchorage is quite comfortable and the situation dispels our initial concerns. Done! We have actually arrived at the Gambiers. Somehow we have both, already not quite believed in it. Happily we fall into each other's arms. We have covered 4035 nautical miles in 51 days. With a little pride, but above all with a lot of relief, the tension falls from us. We do not realize the achievement until much later. Of course, we didn't set a speed record, and many people before us have sailed 4000 nautical miles in one go, but this crossing demanded everything of us mentally and physically, and showed us our limits. We are proud that we have mastered this. In the afternoon the crew of the Mare returns from their shore excursion and we celebrate a reunion. We are happy to hear how the others fared on this trip and we have a lot to talk about. Early in the evening we both fall into a deep sleep that doesn't let us wake up until the morning.

The next day we go ashore for the first time. The dinghy is made ready, the outboard motor is mounted and off we go. Our first way leads us to the gendarmerie, where we have to clear in. We are a bit inconvenient for the officer and almost embarrassed he asks if we could come back this afternoon or, best of all, tomorrow. For us it really doesn't matter and so the policeman says goodbye with a big smile. In the meantime we explore the village, find the post office, and what is even more important, our TO base. In a small restaurant we get a sandwich and can use the internet. After more than seven weeks we are online again for the first time. Most apps only show +99 in the contacts, we are slightly overwhelmed. It will probably take days until we have separated the relevant messages from the advertisements, and until we have told everyone we know about our arrival. We are doing our best to answer all personal inquiries and hope that we don't forget or overlook anyone either. In any case, it feels strange to have solid ground under our feet again after seven weeks. Somehow the ground seems to be swaying considerably. Although we haven't drunk a drop of alcohol, there are passages where we need the whole width of the road to walk straight ahead. Hopefully this will get better soon, otherwise I will get seasick on land. We take a little walk and are surprised about the variety of vegetation. Besides papayas, mangos, and passion fruit, there is also breadfruit, bananas, and various other fruits. But I was surprised to find the Canary Island pine with its long needles. As a water collector this is an almost optimal solution. And indeed, the islands are very green and rich in species. I think there is still much to discover here. But that's exactly why we came here. And you can be sure that we will tell you about it. In this sense, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.