The Polynesian Festival 2023

It's four o'clock in the morning and I still can't believe it. Drowsy, I shuffle along the sidewalk in my Birkenstocks towards the fairground. It's dark, the temperature is pleasant and there's no hint of what's to come. Despite the early hour, there is already a lot going on in front of the fairground. The stands are already well filled. A bonfire is burning in the middle of the square. The shadows of figures sitting around the fire mingle with the black of the night. We find a spot and wait for things to happen. A humming sound, which turns into a chant, spreads from the middle of the group of people around the campfire. A mystical moment, and it becomes clear why the early hour of the day was chosen. The opening takes just half an hour, and the spectators gradually leave the scene. It is made clear to us that we should also come along, as the ceremony will obviously continue at another location.

The arrival Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

Drums and horns made from hollow tree trunks or shells, from which it is not easy to produce any sound at all, accompany us along the way. It is still cow night. Along the shore, you have to be careful not to slip on one of the uneven stones and involuntarily fall into the water. Slowly the shadows get longer and we recognize a few faces. We have been asked to wear the pareo out of respect. A scarf that both men and women wear around their hips as a skirt. According to the internet instructions, this is done twice, which I failed to do because of the lack of fabric. But that doesn't matter, as some of the Polynesians are only dressed in a loincloth and their tattoos. At least the men do. The women have made themselves comfortable under felt covers and pulled the woven top made of palm leaves over them. I would have liked it to be the other way around, but you can't always choose everything in life.

The landing, Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

We arrive at a beach area where more and more people are gathering. The drums that have accompanied us for the whole five days of the festival are getting louder again. If you stand next to them, it's deafening. My stomach vibrates too, reminding me that I haven't eaten breakfast yet. At first light, the wooden catamaran that we have already seen in Hiva-Oa and which was assembled there appears. A welcoming ceremony with drums and singing begins. After an hour, the crew of the catamaran is allowed ashore and there is a short break. Time for breakfast. During the festival, numerous stalls are set up where you can get something to eat. We get a coffee and a baguette with jam before returning to the festival site. We continue with the presentation of the various islands and the presentation of gifts to the authorities of Nuku-Hiva. Furthermore, we are then released for our lunch break. It's now 29°C and the sun is beating down mercilessly on your skin. We are glad that we can escape and find a shady spot. From 6 p.m., a four-hour evening program takes place in which each island group performs its own dances. A long day comes to an end, which has impressed us more than anything we've seen in a long time.

Drummers on Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

The Polynesian festival takes place every four years in the Marquesas. The islands take turns hosting the festival. This year it is Nuku-Hiva. The main activities take place in Taohae Bay. However, daytime events are also held at other locations on the island. The next day we make our way to Taipivai. Here we take part in a traditional lunch, among other things. The food comes from an earth oven that was built the day before. A huge tent has been erected in front of the place where the dances are performed. Here, the food is gradually laid out in a huge buffet, accompanied by loud singing and drumming. There is fish, pork, goat, beef, manioc, an undefined flabby white paste and plantains. And of course the famous breadfruit. Various fruits for dessert. The only big challenge is getting hold of the food because there are so many people.

Necklace on Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

While Gaby gets in line for dinner, I take on the more difficult task of keeping the space under a large, shady tree free. The tactic of throwing your towel over the lounger by the pool at 9.00 a.m. and then getting a good night's sleep doesn't really work here. I don't think the Polynesians, who are actually quite peaceful people, know anything about towels and therefore don't know what to do with the symbolism. The rag would quickly blend in with the color of the floor and would be impossible to find. So I have to use mass. So I lie down under the tree. To take up space, I mime the reclining Buddha. Despite being jostled, children emptying their food over me or people checking to see if I was still alive, I stubbornly defended my spot. Not against the Polynesians, no, against a horde of French sailors who wanted to board this beautiful shady tree. I'm only mentioning this to pre-empt those who think that a role reversal would have been necessary here. Gaby's stature would have been no match for the horde of Frenchmen and the spot would have been irretrievably lost. So we enjoy our meal and then have a look around the festival grounds and the small town. Our cab driver picks us up again at around 4.00 pm. The shared cab takes us back to Taiohae, where there is another evening event.

It's party time, Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

The next day, the daytime event takes place in Hatiheu. The place of worship is located a little away from the village in a forest and probably offers the most beautiful and shady backdrop of this festival. Because it has to be said, the sun can really get to you here. The cab fares for the shared cabs are quite expensive. You're lucky if you get a ride in one of the rental cars, which are of course all fully booked during the festival. There is also a traditional evening program today.

Dancing, Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

On the fourth day, the day event takes place in the bay of Taiohae, but this time at the archaeological site of Koueva.

Fighter, Nuku-Hiva, Marquesas

The fifth and final day ends where the whole festival began. In the morning, still traditional, the evening event is brought into the modern age. The drums fall silent and the electric guitar and bass are brought out again for the music. Even if we didn't understand everything, it's an event not to be missed. We were pleased to see that so much tradition has remained with the Polynesians and that they are trying to keep it alive. We would like to thank our hosts for introducing us to their culture.

I hope that I will be patient enough to send you a few pictures. Until then, fair winds and keep a stiff upper lip.